Alfa News

Refurbishing alloy wheels

May 06th, 2008 | Category: Alfa GTV,Technical | Posted by Richard

Well it has been nearly a year since I refurbished a set of 17″ Alfa Teledial wheels for my GTV, and finally I have got round to allocating the time to make the guide for everyone else that wants to have a go, but doesn’t know where to start…

What you’ll need…

Isopon Metalik (similar to car body filler, with aluminium flakes in it. I’ve found it sticks really well so it’s a safe bet)
U-pol (or any other brand) Etch Primer. It is likely that you’ll rub back to bare metal so normal primer is not suitable as it will not adhere properly to the surface.
Your chosen silver/basecoat. You could use cans for this, but it is far easier to invest in some proper gear like me and use a gun… You’ll get a much more even finish, spend less time tearing your hair out, and end up with a more durable finish. Preferably use 2k (2 part) paint if you have the equipment, you’ll need an air fed mask and enough compressor to power it!
1k/2k Lacquer.
Wet and Dry paper (400 – 2000 grit).
Rubbing Compound (I now use 3M Perfect-it and Hand Glaze).
Finishing waxes.
Patience.
Tough skin (you WILL rub through your hands with wet and dry).

If you’re planning on using a gun etc, you’ll obviously need…

компютри The gun (I use an Iwata LPH-50. A small gun so takes a while on larger areas, but results in a very fine finish. Easily big enough for alloys).
A compressor that can deliver enough airflow.

Lets begin. I picked up these wheels to replace the standard 16″ set (the Teledials are the optional upgrade and THE wheel to have on the GTV). Of course they were second hand so I didn’t expect them to be perfect, but I took a punt and paid £250 over the phone (Typically fetch ~£400 or so in ‘ok’ condition on Ebay). When they turned up a few days later, my expectations were realised! They wheels were all curbed quite badly, almost all the way round! (click on the pictures for a larger image/slideshow)

I surfed google to see what other people had managed. Found a few guys who had fixed the odd small area, but not much more. I decided now was a good excuse to invest in a gun and compressor and just redo the whole lot myself!

Preparation

Before you start, just know that this part will take ages… worth it though if you want a 1st rate finish.

To start with (after thorough cleaning), give the rims a quick rub with a heavy grade wet and dry or emery cloth. This will remove any lose crap, and it does no harm to remove a small amount of material from the rim and makes the pits you’re going to fill more shallow.

Using one of the few smooth areas of rim, I made a ‘scraper’ (pictured below) by pressing Isopon Metalik onto the profile with tape in between so it could be removed easily. If you’re only working on a small area I’d recommend just using your fingers.

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Mix up some more filler to put on the rim. Be careful not to put too much hardener in so you actually have some time to work the material (and it does go off quicker in the sun). I tended to apply the filler using the supplied plastic ‘tool’ or an AOL CD, leaving approximately the right amount on the rim before running over it with my scraper.

Once you’ve gone over with the ‘scraper’ you should be left with a finish a bit like that in the picture to the right…

Leave the filler to dry for half an hour, and find your wet and dry paper. Start with ~400grit and work your way to 1200. The progress pictures below show the result after the 1st wet and drying session, and then after I’d filled any remaining imperfections and finished up the wet sanding.

At this point I used a spray can of etch primer round the edge to get a uniform colour and to make it easier to double check for imperfections. Once you’ve done this, give the inside (presumably unmarked) surface a quick rub down, and mask up the inside edge of the alloys where they’ll be bolted to the hub of the car.

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Once you’ve got all the wheels to this stage, you’ve finished the hard part and can look forward to having fun spray painting!

Painting

As I said before, you can use either cans or a spray gun to paint the wheels, however it really pays to invest some money in a gun and compressor…

A half decent gun will provide you with a much more uniform fine spray than cans will at the best of times.
The cans ‘best of times’ are when they’re half used. At first the pressure is too high and you’re likely to get orange peel, and when it is running out the droplets get too big and you get orange peel! In the middle it’s ‘ok’ but won’t beat a well set up gun.
A good gun will allow you to change the round spray pattern to a flat ‘fan’. This makes life easier as you get an even strip of paint, not just a lot of paint in the middle with a bit round the edge.
You can get a thicker coat on with a gun, and you’re less likely to get drips and sags as the paint (depending on how you mix it) tends to be thicker. Half of what comes out of your can isn’t paint, it’s propellent.
Pots of paint for your gun are relatively cheap, and also you’ll get less over spray. You could just about paint a whole car with £50 worth of paint.

There aren’t too many tips I can give for this; spray painting takes some getting used to, and if you haven’t done it before I’d recommend trying to spray a smooth cheap surface like some melamine faced hardboard. The aim is to get an even coat, without the ‘orange peel’ you see on nearly every car nowadays. If you put too little on the surface will look grainy, almost dusty… as you put more on the dots will join up and give you the well known ‘orange peel’. As you continue to build up the coat the orange peel will disappear, but as soon as it has if you continue to spray you’ll end up with a nasty sag and end up being frustrated waiting while it dries so you can rub it back to have another go!

Most of the mistakes I’ve made in the past have been a result of being in too much of a hurry. If in doubt, go find something else to do and come back later.

Finishing

When most people spray things, they let the paint dry and call it a day. This is why when most people spray things the result is mediocre. When you spray something, anything but the very last bit you do will have dusty over-spray on it. It may only be a small amount, but it basically will make your job look cloudier/duller.

Finishing the wheels doesn’t take too long (a few hours), but the result is well worth it as the paint will really start to shine. You’re best off leaving your newly painted wheels for a few days before attempting this, as the paint will shrink as it dries and just require re-polishing later on.

Once you’ve removed the masking tape from the wheel, you’ll need to start with some really fine (i.e. 2000grit+) wet and dry paper. Lightly rub over the whole wheel. After this, get hold of some fairly fine rubbing compound and apply it to the whole wheel. I used some Halfords stuff at the time which did the job, I now use 3M Perfect-it III fine which is quicker to work with, yet seems to leave just as fine a finish… you might even get away with using T-cut. After that just wax and you’re done! The last few shots show the wheels on my V6 GTV, 1 year and ~12,000miles on, which I think shows the finish to be reasonably durable.

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Update: New Alfa 149 Pictures & Spec

July 03rd, 2007 | Category: Future Models | Posted by Richard

Following an announcement made by the CEO of Alfa Romeo, Antonio Baravalle last Tuesday, it has emerged that the successor to the 147 C-Segment hatch, the 149, is to be launched at the beginning of 2009.

It is to be based on the new Fiat Bravo platform, but should be much more sophisticated – with multilink rear suspension and active roll control. As I mentioned previously, it will be powered by either a 1.4 Petrol Turbo with 120 and 150bhp, a 1.8JTB with 184 and 230bhp and a 1.6 and 2.0 diesel engines providing between 120 and 230bhp. The V6 GTA varient is said to come with 265bhp.

New pictures published by European magazines, now making their way round the interweb, promise a slick looking hatch with cues from the recent 8c. Worthy replacement to the 147? Visually at least, I think so.

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Alfa 33 Brake pads replacement (series 907)

May 24th, 2007 | Category: Alfa 33 | Posted by gritsop

When time comes for the brake warning check light to come in your dashboard, then it is high time you replaced those brake pads!. It is a simple procedure and the DIY mechanic can do it easily.

What you need is:

brake pads

wrenches of 13 & 15 mm

a small piece of wood

a carpenter’s brace

optionally moly grease (the one for CV joints)

Let’s begin…

Here are the brake pads out of their box along with 4 screws for the calipers. Be sure to ask your dealer to supply you with the correct number of screws as ATE pads ship only with 2 screws. It goes without saying that these screws MUST be replaced in every pads replacement.

Slightly undo the wheel bolts when the vehicle is still touching the ground

This is how the fenderwell looks without a wheel

Notice the thin layer of brake pad material that has remained

from another view

disconnect the brake pad wear sensor connector

and loosen slightly the brake fluid reservoir cap

remove the protective cover from the bleeding nipple

remove the cable from the spacers

you don’t have to remove the clip – simply remove the cable by passing it through

cable is out

Now using a 13 mm (left) and a 15 mm wrench (right) undo the upper and lower caliper bolts

Do the same for the lower bolt.

these are the screws that need to be replaced by new ones

get hold of a small piece of cord and hang the caliper from the spring – do not hang the caliper from the brake hose!!! you will end up with stretched brake hose and problematic braking will result.

remove the old brake pads …

…and the rods along with the rubber boots

My personal experience using CV joints grease in these rods is very good. Moly grease is rubber friendly, so no harm done to the boots and in addition it offers very good lubrication for the mobile part of the caliper

Apply a thin layer of grease and install the boots paying attention to place the dense fold towards the head of the rod

Now we need to do something in order to push inside the brake piston

A small piece of wood and a carpenter’s brace is perfect

Got it in! Pay attention here – pushing inside the piston means brake fluid level goes up in the reservoir. Keep an eye in the level and if necessary use a syringe to remove any excess fluid. If it is more practical, you can use a simple straw.

Place the new pads in their position

and pass the sensor cable through the caliper

These are the new screws that will bolt on the fixed part of the caliper

Again use the 13 mm & 15 mm wrenches to bolt everything up

Pass the sensor cable inside the clip and fasten it to the various spacers as you had done during disassembly

Finally don’t forget to connect the sensor to the wiring harness of the vehicle and tighten the brake fluid reservoir cap.

Don’t forget that new brake pads need a certain amount of kms in order to bed in ; do not expect their best for the first 100 kms more or less, so drive carefully !!!

Well done!

1991 Alfa 33 1.4 IE

Athens – Greece

gritsop@otenet.gr

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GTV 2.0 TwinSpark thermostat replacement

May 13th, 2007 | Category: Alfa GTV | Posted by Richard

The thermostat on the Alfa TwinSpark engines seems to have a habit of wearing out over time (fortunately normally stuck open). The result is that the engine never really gets up to temperature, reducing fuel economy and increasing engine wear. Fortunately a new thermostat is only about £35 and is a DIY job to replace.

Changing the thermostat is relatively straightforward, but there are some points to note. In particular, access to the lower securing bolt is restricted, and a suitable 13mm ring spanner spanner is required.

Alfa hose clips are not reusable, so you’ll need new ones. The new thermostat includes an identical built-in rubber gasket. Also get a 1 litre top-up bottle of the proper Alfa ‘Paraflu’ antifreeze.

1. IMPORTANT – check this first

Find a ‘slimline’ 13mm ring spanner and check that you can you can loosen the lower securing bolt a fraction. Some spanners (e.g. ratchet head) are too ‘chunky’ and simply won’t fit in the limited space. Sockets and open-ended spanners won’t fit. The top bolt is not a problem.

Doing up the replacement Jubilee clips is also tricky because of access. A ‘stubby’ flat-blade screwdriver, or better still a 7mm ring spanner is required.

2. The factory hose clips are not reusable. Replace with 4 Jubilee clips 1x40mm, 2x22mm, 1x12mm

3. Place a clean paint-roller tray under the car to catch the coolant.

4. Put a plastic sheet over the exposed clutch operation arm (optional).

5. Use a clean tube to syphon off coolent in the expansion tank into a bucket.

6. Use a small flat screwdriver/pliers to undo the expansion tank hose, taking care not to slip and puncture the hose.

7. Repeat for the radiator top hose.

8. Remove the clip and pull off the top hose. Drain the coolant until the flow stops.

9. Remove the temperature sender carefully – it may be partially seized in the housing.

10. Undo the top and bottom 13mm bolts holding the thermostat to the engine block.

11. Remove the thermostat body from the engine – it should just come off in your hand.

12. Remove the other clips and hoses.

13. Remove the thermostat body completely from the car.

There was nothing visibly wrong with my thermostat – I think they just age and stop working properly.

The actual thermostat element can’t be changed by itself and you have to replace the entire housing which has the element enclosed in it.

14. Slip the replacement Jubilee clips over all four hoses.

15. Fit the two heater hoses first (the bottom tubes) and position the Jubilee clips over the marks left by the old ones.

16. Refit the new thermostat housing to the engine block.

17. Tighten up the Jubilee clips on the two heater hoses.

18. Fit the expansion tank and radiator top hoses and Jubilee clips.

19. Put a single layer of PTFE tape on the thread of the temperature sender and refit it.

20. Replace the electrical connector to the sender.

WARNING – don’t start the engine with the connector off. This will trip the ‘check engine’ light.

21. Refill the system via the expansion tank. Note that the expansion tank hose has a plastic retaining clip which goes on to the air inlet.

22. Check everything for tightness and leaks and re-position any other plastic retaining clips

23. Start the engine and let it run for 10 mins, and re-check for leaks.

24. Replace the expansion tank cap.

Thanks to ‘jdmcbride’ from sportsalfa.com for the words to this guide.

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Brera & Spider 3.2 JTS ECU Re-Map

May 12th, 2007 | Category: Alfa Brera | Posted by Richard

Re-map from Autodelta increases power output and fuel economy

Autodelta are now pleased to be able to introduce a new engine remap programme for the Alfa Brera and Spider 3.2 V6 Q4 versions, which delivers increased power and torque. Available power is increased by 14 bhp (to 274 bhp), while more importantly torque is increased by 23 lb.ft (32Nm). Acceleration times have also been improved as has optimum top speed. This new remap programme, thus delivers enhanced all-round improvements. By making major changes to the electronically controlled continuous cam timing on both the inlet and exhaust camshafts, the car’s throttle behaviour and overall power delivery have been vastly improved. Additionally by extensive fuelling and ignition timing programme changes, fuel consumption characteristics are improved by up to 5 percent running on 95 or 98 octane petrol. Another area which Autodelta’s engineering team has additionally improved is the low rev limit delivered in 1st gear, which is set at 6,200rpm, to improve the 0-60 mph (0-100km/h) acceleration. This rev limit has now been raised to 6,800 rpm by the remap programme.

The modification is available at Autodelta’s Park Royal, London Headquarters at a cost of £395.00 + vat.

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Alfa 149

May 12th, 2007 | Category: Future Models | Posted by Richard

The Alfa 149 to replace the current 147 is rumoured to be launched in 2008 with production starting in early 2009.

It will be based on a shorted version of the 159 platform (Brera anyone?) and at the moment looks like it will be taking design cues from the recent 8c Competizione supercar.

Probable engine options include a 1.4 Turbo with 120 and 150bhp, a 1.8JTB with 184 and 230bhp and a 1.6 and 2.0 diesel engines providing between 120 and 230bhp. The high spec models are likely to include 4wd like the 3.2V6 159 and Brera models to cope with the power better than the 147GTA.

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The new Alfa GT BlackLine

April 20th, 2007 | Category: Alfa GT | Posted by Richard

The stylish and distinctive Alfa GT gets its sporty soul brought to the surface.

Alfa Romeo is pleased to announce the launch of the BlackLine limited edition on the Alfa GT.

The new version will be available on the 1.9 JTDM diesel engine developing 150bhp as well as on the 2.0 JTS petrol unit with 165bhp.

With prices starting at £19.980 the Alfa GT BlackLine includes as standard:

18″ unique 7 hole design alloy wheels with 225/40 R18 tyres

Carbonio black metallic paint

Bose® sound system with amplifier and subwoofer

Satin effect, heated, electrically adjustable wing mirrors

Satin effect front grille

Sports seats upholstered in black sports leather

Red stitched interior detailing

Aluminium sports pedals

Sports dials with red background

Rear parking sensors

For more information visit www.alfaGTblackline.co.uk.

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Geneva Motor Show 2007

March 07th, 2007 | Category: Alfa 8c Competizione | Posted by Richard

At the 77th Internationale Auto-Salon, the 2007 Geneva Motor Show, Alfa Romeo showed off its stunning 8c Competizione – this time in black. The car is to begin production in limited numbers later this year.

The car, designed by Alfa Romeo, is directly derived from the concept car that aroused such admiration at the 2003 Frankfurt Motor Show and has benefited from the best technical and industrial know-how that the Alfa-Maserati Sports Centre can offer. The cooperative venture between both manufacturers was conducted with a view to ensuring integration between the Alfa Romeo design departments and the Maserati production departments.

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Autodelta Brera J5 3.2 C Gallery

November 03rd, 2006 | Category: Alfa Brera | Posted by Richard

Yesterday evening the new Autodelta Brera J5 3.2 C was presented for its international public debut at the MPH06 Motor Show which opened at the Earls Court Exhibition Centre, London. Following its media preview in Monte Carlo in late September, the production version of the Brera J5 3.2 C has now been finalised by Autodelta and it is this car that is making its debut at MPH06. Pricing for the package has also been announced at the show. Advance orders have already been taken, however the order book officially opened yesterday and first deliveries will take place in January.

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Alfa Brera

April 03rd, 2005 | Category: Alfa Brera | Posted by Richard

The Brera was officially launched at the 2005 Geneva Motor Show in March. Its prototype had received huge praise 3 years later.

Predictably, the production version some of the ‘edge’ of the concept, although on the whole remains reasonably faithful to the original design. Essentially it had been scaled down to meet production techniques and fit in the the 159 premium platform.

The dimensions are a bit different: the production Brera is slightly longer (+25 mm) but has a consistantly shorter wheelbase (-70 mm). This soften the sporty and aggressive look of the Concept, that rested on the 20 inches wheels placed at the corners of the car and had minimal overhangs.

This “quieter” character of the car is stressed by the smaller width (-64 mm) and the greater height (+84 mm).

Another significant change can be seen in the profile view: the side window is split in two parts by a small B-pillar; the door profile is completely different: it is shorter and has a more conventional line. The space left in the rear portion of the side panel gives the production Brera a heavier look.

[www.carbodydesign.com]

The Brera is currently available with 3 different engine configurations; the 3.2 litre V6 petrol, 2.2 litre four cylinder petrol and 2.4 litre five cylinder diesel.

The 2.2 litre engine produces 185 bhp and like the V6, is based on a GM unit. This engine has variable cam timing on both inlet and exhaust camshafts and has considerably more torque than the outgoing Fiat unit. With this engine fitted the car will come with a 6 speed manual or selespeed gearbox and drive will be through the front wheels. The V6 engine produces 260 bhp and is matched to a four-wheel drive system that normally splits the power 43/57 with the bias to the rear. When the torsen c differential senses a lack of grip it can adjust the torque split from this setting so that 78% of the torque goes to the front or rear wherever it is needed.

[www.alfaworkshop.co.uk]

Currently there’s rumours of a ‘GTA’ version in late 2007 – possibly with a Maserati derived V8 under the bonnet. Apparently a turbocharged V6 was considered however produced ‘difficult’ amounts of torque, so the V8 is more likely.

Expect over 400bhp if it comes to market, but not nessesarily the GTA badge.

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Refurbishing alloy wheels

Update: New Alfa 149 Pictures & Spec

Alfa 33 Brake pads replacement (series 907)

GTV 2.0 TwinSpark thermostat replacement

Brera & Spider 3.2 JTS ECU Re-Map

Alfa 149

The new Alfa GT BlackLine

Geneva Motor Show 2007

Autodelta Brera J5 3.2 C Gallery

Alfa Brera

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